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Fold-Up Vacation Trailer
Sleeps Six 
Vintage 1960 Camping Trailer
with Slide Out
Complete Illustrated Plans and Instructions

Cover of complete plans to build a vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out.
Fold-Up Vacation
Camping Trailer Plans
Build this Vintage
Travel Trailer with Slide Out
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Picture of the completed Jack-In-The-Box DIY pop up camper trailer.
Title panel of Fold-Up Vacation Trailer Sleeps Six Craft Print Project No. 305
Proof of its sturdy construction, this photo was taken after Sid Troolin’s camping trailer had covered 10,000 miles on two vacation trips.
Proof of its sturdy construction, this photo was taken after Sid Troolin's camping trailer had covered 10,000 miles on two vacation trips.
FIVE minutes after you reach a camping site, you can have this DIY trailer set up to provide indoor sleeping or eating accommodations for six people. When you figure the cost of motel accommodations and restaurant meals for a family of six you can quickly realize the cost saving advantages a trailer of this type offers. You'll also save several hundred dollars by building. it yourself. When it is folded down for traveling, there is plenty of space in the trailer body to store all vacation items that otherwise clutter the car and take up usable seating space. This trailer design has been carefully worked out in subassemblies so the amateur builder can use his garage or carport to assemble the parts out of the weather. You start construction with the running gear.

Trailer Axle

We used the steering knuckles with wheel spindles from a '50 Nash front end and bolted them to a home-made axle (Fig. 8) for our trailer running gear. Steering knuckles from other makes of cars can also be used provided they can be bolted or welded to the flat surface of the trailer axle end plate.

If possible, select steering knuckles, hubs and wheels of the same size as your car so you will have a spare in case of a flat. When ordering the 4-in. channel iron for the trailer axle (see Materials List), have it cut to the 53 1/2-in. length with a power hacksaw, rather than torch cut, so that the ends will be smooth and square. Also have the spindle supports and end plates cut to size.

Before welding the axle parts together, drill the 13/32-in. holes in the channel iron and end plates. Then center the spindles of the steering knuckles on the end plates 5 3/8 in. from one end as in Fig. 8A. Locate and

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Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 2. Slide Out
 
Figure 2. Slide Out
tap the four holes in the end plates from the holes in the steering knuckles. Use hardened cap screws to bolt the knuckles to the end plates. Apply thread locker to the threads of the cap screws to prevent them from loosening.

Now, assemble the support gussets and end plates to the channel iron with C-clamps and bar clamps and check the alignment of the spindles with a straightedge or flat surface. Then tack weld the parts together and remove the clamps. To prevent distortion of the end plates due to the heat of arc welding, tack weld two lengths of scrap 3/4-in. pipe from the top of the end plates to the channel, as in Fig. 8B, before making any continuous welds. Remove the pipes after completing the welding.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 3. Wheel Housing
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Figure 3. Wheel Housing
Floor Assembly

First rip the 10-ft. long panels of 1/2-in. plywood to obtain the two 40-in. wide by 10-ft. long floor boards. Then lay out and saw the 14 x 33-in. cut-outs to provide clearance for the trailer wheels. Be sure to make these cutouts on opposite ends of the floor boards so you will have one right and one left hand floor board.

Place the 2 x 6-in. tongue plank on the garage floor and mark a centerline along its entire length. Then cut and assemble the other 2 x 2- and 2 x 4-in. framing members (indicated with dotted lines in Fig. 9A) on each side of the tongue. Toenail or use corrugated fasteners to temporarily hold these framing members in alignment. The 2 x 2-in. pieces (actually 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 in.) that go along the 10-ft. ends and around the wheel cutouts are best installed later.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figures 2. and 3. Foldout Page
Figures 2. and 3. Foldout Page
Place the two floor boards on the framing members, centering them on the tongue. Then check to see that the front and rear edges are in line and flush with the framing members. Be sure to have the smooth or A side of the plywood facing up. When everything checks out square and flush, remove the floor boards and coat the contacting surfaces of the framing with glue. Replace the floor boards and fasten with a few nails to hold them in place. Then, referring to Fig. 9A for placement of screws, drill and countersink pilot holes for the screws and drive them tightly with a wood brace and screwdriver bit. The 2 x 2-in. framing around the wheel cutouts and end can then be installed.
Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 4. To set up the trailer, have your helper crouch just inside the door and swing up the rear panel as you swing up the rear panel as you lift the roof. Then, going to the front end of the trailer...
Figure 4. To set up the trailer, have your helper crouch just inside the door and swing up the rear panel as you swing up the rear panel as you lift the roof. Then, going to the front end of the trailer...
Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 5. Raise this end of the roof and hold it there by pushing up on the hinged end panels while you swing up the roof support.
Figure 5. Raise this end of the roof and hold it there by pushing up on the hinged end panels while you swing up the roof support.
Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 6. Finally, pull out the bunk beds which will automatically raise the end panel to the vertical position.
Figure 6. Finally, pull out the bunk beds which will automatically raise the end panel to the vertical position.
Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 7. Hang up the canvas sides with snap fasteners provided.
Figure 7. Hang up the canvas sides with snap fasteners provided.
To make this floor assembly into a rigid box section that will resist twisting and bending, turn the assembly upside down and install a 4 x 10-ft. under-panel of 1/2-in. plywood to the center of the framing, using glue and screws spaced as in Fig. 9A.
Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Bill of Materials
Bill of Materials
Bolt the three angle-iron cross braces to the underside, locating them as in Fig. 9A. Place 1/2 x 1 5/8 x 16-in. strips of plywood under the ends of the angle-iron for spacers. To reinforce the tongue, bolt the 3/16 x 2-in. steel strap to the underside of the tongue with 3/4-in. carriage bolts spaced as in Fig. 9B and the two bolts used to fasten the trailer hitch to the tongue.

Note that a straight and tapered strip of 1 1/4 x 3-in. wood is placed between the tongue and steel strap for spacers to form a beam and strengthen the tongue.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 8. Axle Assembly
Figure 8. Axle Assembly
Now, while the floor assembly is in the upside-down position, is the time to bolt the trailer axle in place. First glue and screw the 1/2-in. plywood axle spacer (Fig. 9A) to the under-panel, centering it at the wheel cut-outs. Then position the axle so the spindles are centered across the wheel cutouts and equidistant from the right and left sides of the floor assembly. Also check to make certain the axle is square with the tongue and floor sides before bolting the axle to the floor assembly as shown in Fig. 8A. Give the entire underside of the floor assembly one coat of house primer followed by one coat of porch and deck enamel.
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Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 9. Floor Assembly
Figure 9. Floor Assembly
Trailer Body

With the assembly turned right side up, block it up off the floor. Check the floor surface of the assembly with a level to in place.

To get all of the 3/8-in. plywood pieces needed to make the wheel housings (Fig. 3), the bunk beds (Fig. 12A) and the lower rear body panels (Fig. 11B), use five 4 x 8-ft. panels of 3/8-in. plywood. Lay out all of the pieces on the five panels before sawing out any parts. Rip saw the 1 x 1 5/8-in. framing pieces for the wheel housing from 2 x 4-in. stock. Then assemble the wheel housings to the cut-outs on the floor assembly with #6 x 1-in. fh screws as in Fig. 3. Be sure the front and rear end panels of the wheel housings are flush with the sides and square with the floor. Do not cover the wheel housings at this time. Slide the 3/8 x 8 x 12-in. plywood spacer between the axle and wheel housing as in Fig. 3 and drill through both spacer and housing to insert the 3/8-in. bolt (Fig. 8A).

Next, lay out and saw the side panels (Fig. 10) to shape. Rip the side rail and stud for the side panel from 2 x 4-in. stock and fasten to the panels as in Fig. 10 so that you will have a right- and left-hand side for the trailer body.

To hold the sides flush with the bottom of the floor during assembly, temporarily nail two scrap pieces of 1 x 2-in. stock to the underside of the floor assembly so they project out about an inch as in Fig. 3. Have someone assist you in lifting and holding the side panels into position while you drive a few nails to keep them in place. Then fasten the side panels to the floor assembly and wheel housings with #8 x fh screws spaced 10 in. apart.

Before installing the rear body panels, nail the 1 x 1 5/8-in. framing to them as in Fig. 11B. Install the panels with the bottom edges resting on top of the floor assembly. Use #8 x 1 1/2-in. fh screws to fasten them to the side panels and nail them to the floor with 2-in. nails through the framing.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 10. Side Panel
Figure 10. Side Panel
We extended the wheel housing covers to the rear panels as in Fig. 2 and used them as seats and a place to put the two-burner camp stove. If you prefer, the wheel housings only can be covered and other chair and cabinet arrangements worked out to suit your individual needs.

Bunk Beds

The Bunk Beds are a large box-like structure that slides out of the front of the trailer body as in Fig. 6, when setting up the trailer for camping use. Make the bunk bed assembly from 3/8-in. plywood and framing ripped from 2 x 4-in. stock as detailed in Fig. 12A. The two metal louvers installed in the sides of the bunk bed structure will provide ventilation for the lower bunk bed. When installing the louvers, place pieces of wire window screening over the louvers so screening will be "sandwiched" between louver and the opening in the bunk bed sides.

Mark and cut out the bottom edge of the bunk bed front to clear the tongue. The angle irons bolted to the ends of the bunk bed front panel (Fig. 12B) protect the front corner of the trailer body and hold the body sides in place when the trailer is folded down for traveling.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 11. Rear Panels
Figure 11. Rear Panels
Attach a pair of folding handles to the front of the bunk beds for use when pulling the bed section out as in Fig. 2.

Next, make the top rear panel as detailed in Fig. 11A. Rip the 4 x 8-ft. sheet of Masonite hardboard to the 39 1/4-in. width first, and save the strip left over for use on the roof later. Cut out the door opening as you did the wheel cutouts so as to preserve the piece for making the door. When assembling the framing to the hardboard, note that only one vertical door frame member is flush with the hardboard. This is the side the door will be hinged on. Use glue and 3/4-in. brads to fasten the hardboard to the framing.

Now fasten the 2-in. butt hinges to the inside of the bottom framing and have someone hold the top rear panel in place on the rear trailer body panels while you mark them for the hinge cutouts as in Fig. 11B. Then screw the hinges in place and clamp a temporary brace to the top and bottom rear panels to hold the top panel upright.

In use, the top rear panel is supported in the vertical or set-up position with two hinged braces made as detailed in Fig. 13A. When assembling the braces to the trailer, fasten the 16-ga. steel brackets to the ends of the top rear panel first. Then fasten the lower leg of the hinged braces to the inside of the trailer side panels.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 12. Bunk Beds
Figure 12. Bunk Beds
The location dimensions shown in Fig. 13A are theoretically correct, but since you may have to vary them slightly, don't permanently fasten the lower legs until you have raised and lowered the rear panel to try the braces for correct action and proper fit in the "down" position. In the correct "down" position, the collapsed brace should rest on the lower leg of the brace with the top rear panel leaning down slightly to clear the rafters of the roof. Outer edge of panel should be approximately two inches below top edge of sides. When you have the brace positioned correctly, fasten the lower leg with three #8 x 1 1/2-in. fh screws from the outside of the trailer sides.

To support the front of the trailer roof, make the hinged roof support as in Fig. 13B and attach to the studs at the inside front ends of the side panels with 6-in. strap hinges. In the down position, this support should rest on the top of the bunk bed structure.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 13. Front Roof Support and  Hinged Brace
Figure 13. Front Roof Support and Hinged Brace
Roof Assembly

The Roof Assembly (Fig. 14A) is your next item to build. Starting with the stringers, rip two 12-ft. lengths of 1 x 6-in. redwood at a 6° angle as in Fig. 14A for the A and B stringers. Clamp the B stringers together and notch them both at the same time for the C rafters. Then remove the Clamps and fasten the B stringers to the A stringers with glue and 2-in. nails, clinching them on the inside.

Now lay out and saw one of the C rafters to shape. To aid in drawing the curved line for the top of the rafter, bend and hold a strip of plywood against nails driven into the rafter stock at the 13/16, 2 1/4 and 2 3/4- in. measured points. Then, using this rafter as a pattern, lay out and saw the other C and D rafters. Notch the ends of the D rafters for the B stringers and assemble the C and D rafters to the stringers as in sec. B-B, Fig. 14A, with glue and one 2-in. nail at each joint. Cut the front, rear and center rafters to size and nail them in place between the rafters. Then check the framework by measuring diagonally across the curves to see if it is square.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 14. Roof Assembly
Figure 14. Roof Assembly
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Before installing the 1/8-in. hardboard roof, plane or file with a rasp all the rafter-to-stringer joints to make certain their top surfaces are flush so that the hardboard will make good contact with all frame members. Apply the first sheet of hardboard flush with the end rafter and fasten with about a dozen 3/4-in. nails to hold it in place. Then install the other two sheets and trim off the over-hang along the stringers.

Use #6 x 3/4-in. rh screws spaced 6 in. apart along the outer edges, and 3/4-in. nails spaced 4 in. apart along the butting edges of the hardboard. To make the seam weather tight, spread a thin layer of caulking compound about 3-in. wide along the seam and cover with a 2 3/4-in. wide strip of hardboard fastened in place with 4-40 x 1/2 rh machine screws as in sec. A-A, Fig. 14A.

To support the roof in the set-up position, install the cleats and hardboard guides on the rear panel as in sec. E-E, Fig. 14A and the front hinged roof support as in sec. D-D. The hardboard guide and 1/2-in. plywood backing on the rear panel cannot be over 18 in. long because it must fit into the top rear door opening when the rear panel is folded down for traveling. Top rear door must be left open when trailer is collapsed for traveling.

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Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 15. Hinged Front Panels
 
Figure 15. Hinged Front Panels
Upper and Lower Panel Assemblies

The Upper and Lower Panel Assemblies connecting the roof with the front edge of the bunk beds are designed so that the upper panel will cover the lower panel when in the collapsed position (Fig. 15A). Fasten the two
panels together with four equally spaced hinges along their long sides (Fig. 15B). Then fasten the lower panel to the rail on the front of the bunk bed structure.

To hold the panel assemblies to the roof when it is to be set up for camping, fasten two sliding bolt locks to the top edge of the upper panel flush with the ends as in Fig. 15C. Drill holes into the roof stringers on the inside to take the sliding bolts, and reinforce the holes with 16-gage steel plates. When the trailer is collapsed for traveling, disengage the sliding bolts and install 6-in. gate hooks as in Fig. 2, to hold the panels to the trailer sides. Apply 6-in. lengths of sponge rubber weatherstripping at all points where the panel assemblies contact one another in the folded position (including the hinged rear panel supports) to prevent rattles while traveling.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 16. Two air mattresses on the floor in front of the double bunk beds provid sleeping accommodations for six people. Hookshold trailer sides to bunk beds.
Figure 16. Two air mattresses on the floor in front of the double bunk beds provide
sleeping accommodations for six people. Hooks hold trailer sides to bunk beds.
Now make the upper and lower doors (Fig. 11A and B) and hang them with 2-in. butt hinges recessed in the edges of the doors and rear panel framing. Install a night-latch type of lock on the bottom door.

Have your local awning shop make up the canvas sides for you according to the pattern given in Fig. 17. Be sure to tell the awning shop operator that the pattern dimensions are slightly oversize for shrinkage allowance. Before putting the sides up for the first time, moisten them with your garden hose and let them dry while fastened in place on the trailer. The sides should then shrink to the right size.

Note that the grommets for the Dot fasteners are installed so that the top of the canvas sides can be fastened from inside the trailer and the sides and bottom fastened from the outside of the trailer. Attach the Dot fasteners to the inside of the roof stringers as in sec. C-C, Fig. 14A, and to the bottom of the side rails as in Fig. 10.

To stiffen the trailer sides when the bunk beds are pulled out in the set-up position, attach screen door hooks to the top corners of the bunk bed and locate the screw-eye so that the sides can be hooked to the bed as in Fig. 16. The auxiliary spring lifts, shown in Fig. 2, are optional. But they will assist raising the roof and may be purchased readymade for $20 from Morrison Machine Shop, Lincolnway West, Morrison, Illinois. To aid in pulling out the bunk bed slide out, make up the bracket for the roller skate wheels as in Fig. 12A and bolt it to the front of the bunk beds so that the skate wheels will roll on the trailer tongue.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 17. Canvas Sides
Figure 17. Canvas Sides
Install the trailer turn signals, clearance and tail lights following the wiring diagram in Fig. 18. Use #18 plastic covered wire to hook up all lights and fasten the wires with insulated staples under the side rails and down the outside of the side panel and then along the side of the tongue to the 4-way switch. Drill a hole in your car trunk as near to the hitch as possible to take the wires leading from the other end of the 4-way connector. Connect these wires to the existing wires in the trunk of your car.

Since the weight on the trailer tongue is low, you will not require a trailer hitch having a built-in jack. Merely make a tongue support as in Fig. 2 from scrap 2 x 6-in. stock. For the rear make a tapered rear support as in Fig. 2 which can be pushed under the trailer floor assembly to hold the trailer level when it is parked for camping. Because the height of these supports will vary depending upon the wheels and tires you use, determine the heights of the supports by measuring the ground-to-trailer distance.

Vintage 1960 camping trailer with slide out Figure 18. Wiring Diagram
Figure 18. Wiring Diagram
For a finish, apply one coat of Firzite, one coat of enamel under coater and one coat of exterior enamel in your choice of color. With the exception of fastening four draw-bolt type cabinet catches to hold the roof down as in Fig. 14B, your trailer is complete and ready to hit the road on that long-awaited camping trip. Remember to inflate trailer tires to only 10-12-lbs. to offset lack of springs and provide proper cushioning.
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