1970 Truck Camper Plans | Build a Vintage Wood Frame Cabover Pickup Camper

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1970 Truck Camper Plans
Build a Vintage Wood Frame Cabover Pickup Camper

Plans for a vintage 1970 cabover truck camper.

1970 Truck Camper Plans
Build a Vintage Wood Frame Cabover Pickup Camper

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Get a restored copy of these Vintage 1970 Truck Camper Plans with 11 Pages of Enhanced and Enlarged Figures and Illustrations and Searchable Text.

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IF YOU can't buy it, build it. This was my decision when I couldn't find a camper body that would meet my particular needs and pickup. If you have a similar problem, you might do as I did and follow this procedure to suit your own pickup. Though the dimensions of your truck will be different, the method is relatively universal.

My first step was to visit dealers in stock campers to decide on the equipment I could use. Next, I measured and laid out on paper the dimensions of the pickup box. My truck is a Corvair 95 Rampside (since discontinued) which made possible an interesting side entrance door. Your pickup no doubt will require a rear entry but the general building approach is the same, no matter the pickup. I drew a set of plans for building the camper with a scale of 1/8 in. to the foot. I decided on this scale because it would best show the details of framing members - vertical and horizontal stringers - that make up the wall and roof sections. The drawings showed windows and door locations and the best placement of such interior appointments as stove and refrigerator, kitchen and dining areas. At the outset, I wanted to cut the weight of the camper and so I carefully selected appointments, appliances and construction materials to keep the finished weight of the camper as low as possible.

I selected redwood for the framing material of the sides and top. On the floor and forward portion of the camper I used 3/4-in. fir plywood because of its strength and rigidity. I assembled the floor sections to the front wall of the camper, also using 3/4-in. plywood. This involved tailor-fitting the various cuts to the exact area size of the pickup box.

CAMPER rear view showing position of tank on tailgate to comply with laws. Windows are fitted with screens.

CAMPER rear view showing position of propane tank on tailgate to comply with laws. Windows are fitted with screens.

After completing the floor assembly, I turned to the sides next. For this I selected l x 8 x 10-in. redwood boards. I had these boards milled to an exact 3/4-in. thickness at a lumber mill. This was an important operation because I wanted to use a 3/4-in. router blade to cut the half-lap joints. Therefore, it was imperative that the material thickness be an exact 3/4 in. to assure a tight-fitting lap joint. These boards then were rip-sawed to 1 1/2 in. width on a table saw for use as the vertical studs and horizontal stringers for the sides and top of the body. I referred to my plans to find the exact locations where these members would cross one another. At these marked locations the router was used to cut 3/4 x 3/4-in. rabbets. This made a perfect fitting lap joint.

Next, the verticals were attached to the assembled floor section and the horizontal stringers were glued and clamped to the verticals. At points where I believed there would be stress, I further secured the lap joints with a counter-sunk 1 1/2-in. flathead wood screw. Consideration and attention were given to the location of windows and doors when fabricating these side members so lap joints would not fall in a position that might interfere with the installation of the windows, doors and vents.

WATER STORAGE tanks are filled from the camper. Fittings for the camper purchased from a local mobile home dealer.

WATER STORAGE tanks are filled from outside the camper. Fittings for the camper were purchased from a local mobile home dealer.

This type of construction results in a honeycomb or cellular configuration which makes it easy to place the 1 1/2-in. fiberglass insulation in each of the cells. The top of the camper was assembled in exactly the same manner as the sides and the two were attached. The front and rear of the top were rounded where they met the front and back.

Figure 1. Truck Camper Framing Details

The superstructure of the camper now was complete and ready for the interior plywood. The interior was paneled with 1/4-in. mahogany panel board. This was secured to the interior skeleton with contact cement applied between the stringers and the back face of the panels. In areas where I thought there would be greater stress, I fastened the panels to the frame with 3/4-in. flathead brass screws countersunk into the panels. After the paneling was in place I set all the windows and the door. I finished these off with aluminum moldings.

HEATER is a compact model which provides comfort in subzero weather. It vents behind the truck cab protected from the weather.

The next step was to lay out the electrical circuits for the interior lights, taillights, stop and clearance lights. At the same time, I installed the wiring cable for the intercom system for communication between body and truck cab. After the wiring, I installed the fiberglass insulation in the cells formed by the stringers. The fiberglass is best cut to size with a sharp knife. Any other means of cutting and handling this material can be hazardous. (Broken glass fibers can penetrate the skin and cause irritation.) With the insulation in place, the following step was to install the exterior aluminum skin to finish the body.

The aluminum covering which I used for the camper was the regular grade and weight of prefinished white trailer siding. This was provided in exact lengths and widths to meet my specifications.

CABINETS above range provide plenty of storage. Every inch of interior space is utilized for efficient living and most comfort.

The aluminum was fastened to the skeleton framework with 3/4-in. hex-head aluminum screws. After the skin on the sides and top there remained only the roof rail, outside window garnish and drip caps for the windows and door.

This is a good place to mention the source for the appliances and building materials that were used in this project. An excellent supplier can be found at practically any mobile-home sales and service center. Most of these are affiliated with some large trailer supply dealer. Throughout the planning and building of this custom camper an attempt was made to keep everything light as possible but at the same time functional.

Figure 2. 1970 truck camper plan and elevation views with dimensions.

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Modern appliances and materials that would require minimum maintenance were chosen. These appliances can be repaired by most mobile home dealers and parts are readily available.

With the interior of the camper coach completed there remained only the placement and fastening of the gas stove, refrigerator, space heater and kitchen sink. The cabinet doors and drawers were made of 3/4-in. birch plywood sanded and varnished to match the interior paneling. The floor was covered with 9-in. square vinyl tile, except for the dinette area, which was covered with nylon carpeting.

HOMESTYLE conveniences are to be found throughout this handsome Camper. All appliances operate on both 12 and 117 volts.

The cost of all materials, including appliances, was about $850 and the project required about 200 spare-time hours in building. The resulting camper fitted perfectly into the pickup box. The completed weight of the coach is 1,030 lbs., well within the weight limit I had estimated and set.

In use this camper has turned out to be a good performer. It handles well and the weight is evenly distributed for cornering and roadability. When the pickup must be used without the camper, a sling can be attached to four eyebolts at the corners of the camper and the whole thing can be hoisted out.

For living in, she lives up to our expectations also. There is plenty of storage space, the body is cool in summer and warm in chill nights. Interior appointments are both functional and comfortable with all conveniences.