Easy To Build Folding Camp Trailer | DIY Plans for a Camper Sleep Ready in 10 Seconds

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Easy To Build Folding Camp Trailer
DIY Plans for a Camper Sleep Ready in 10 Seconds

Easy To Build Folding Camp Trailer
DIY Plans for a Camper Sleep Ready in 10 Seconds

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Get a restored copy of these Vintage Easy To Build Folding Camp Trailer Plans with 6 Pages of Enhanced and Enlarged Figures and Illustrations and Searchable Text.

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INEXPENSIVE and easy to build folding camp trailer is always ready to go. Biggest advantage of this easily constructed rig is the ample storage space that eliminates the need to pack and unpack for each trip. Conversion takes 10 seconds.

WITH a folding trailer such as this, your camping equipment always is packed and ready to go at a minute's notice. At a roadside park, the trailer supplies you with a table. Later, one person can ready the bed in less than ten seconds. More than 16 cu. ft. of storage space and strategically placed doors combine to eliminate the time normally required for readying a conventional camp trailer.

Figure 1. Easy To Build Camp Trailer detailed assemly, with dimensions.

Get a restored copy of these Vintage Easy To Build Folding Camp Trailer Plans with 6 Pages of Enhanced and Enlarged Figures and Illustrations and Searchable Text.

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The best part, however, is the cost; just over $100, including new wheels (but excluding bedding, stove, etc., of course). Find a set of used wheels and springs and you can reduce the cost even more.

Our camp trailer has no frame and is constructed by fastening together plywood panels by means of 1 x 1 1/2-in. strips of fir or pine.

DESIGN of the frame will vary with the type of wheels used, but use angle iron at least 2 1/2-in. wide for required strength.

Begin by cutting out the sides and ends. Fasten the l x l 1/2-in. strips to the side panels to hold the bunk base, ends and bottom. These strips should set in 1/2 in. from the edge of side panel (with the exception of the bunk strip which is six in. from the top of the side panel). Be sure to apply glue to all contact surfaces.

After the strips have been secured with 1-in. wood screws, stand the side panels on a level surface and fasten the front and rear panels in place. Again, apply glue to all contact surfaces.

Fasten the bunk strips inside the front and rear panels and install three bunk cross-supports between the side panels. Cut out the bunk panel, coat the support surfaces with glue and set the bunk panel in place with 1-in. screws spaced six to eight in. apart.

REAR DOOR doubles as table for stove, grill, or roadside dining.
Space behind is large enough for chaise lounge and folding chairs.

Turn the trailer body over and install a 2 x 2-in. support down each side against the center bunk support. Cut two triangle braces from plywood scraps. Make sure the sides are straight and install the braces as shown. At this point paint or shellac the inside of the trailer.

Install three 2 x 6-in. heavy braces between the bottom panel support strips. Use three 3-in. wood screws in each end of the supports. The bolts holding the body to the frame will pass through these.

After coating all contact surfaces with glue, put the bottom panel in place. Secure the panel with 1-in. wood screws about six in. apart. (Be sure to fasten the bottom to the 2 x 6-in. cross supports.)

The design of the frame varies with the type of wheels used. Since the trailer bottom is flat, the body is designed to accommodate almost any style of frame you desire to use. If your particular frame does not mate with the 2 x 6-in. heavy supports used in the body, move the supports or install additional supports.

Turn the trailer upright and make cuts for the access doors. All cuts are at 90° except for the bottom cut on the rear door. This cut should be made at an angle level with top of trailer so water will not collect at the bottom of door.

To attach the piano hinges easily, do not cut out the doors completely. First, make the cut on the hinged side. Then make only half the bottom and top cuts. Install the hinge with four screws and then finish cutting. All side door hinges should be installed toward the front. If the doors unlatch during travel the wind still will hold the door closed.

Easy To Build Camp Trailer List of Materials

Cut enough 1 1/4-in. strips to make the stop flanges for the side and rear doors. Fasten them in place with 1-in. screws. The rear door should have chain stops so the stove will be level when lowered. Install all of the door latches.

Cut the 4-in. overlapping sides for the top and secure them with glue and 1 1/4-in. wood screws. Cut the hinge and fasten it with 1/2-in. screws to the front inside edge of the top. Place the top on the body and fasten the hinge to the body. There should be 1/2-in. of clearance between body and top.

Use the hinge to secure the roof support panel to the rear of the trailer. The panel may be made from two pieces of plywood or you can purchase another sheet. Since the only weight on this panel is vertical, two pieces glued together will provide ample strength. But be sure the seam is watertight.

The fenders can be purchased separately or you can make them from scrap materials.

Before painting, fill all screw holes with wood filler and sand smooth. Since the trailer will be subjected to road dust and bad weather, give it at least two coats of good paint. A two-tone paint job, such as white top and tan body, is a nice idea.

Waterproof canvas sides are attached to the trailer for foul-weather protection. The canvas can be attached permanently as shown or snaps can be used for easy removal. Nylon screening also can be added for protection from insects. Your trailer now is ready for many years of worry-free camping, whether you spend two weeks at each spot or move to a new campground every day.